For a long time, since before opening actually, we’ve struggled with the food issue. In the first place, we wanted to open a bar, not a restaurant. This was a conscious decision based on the fact that these are separate businesses, and if you want to have a restaurant with a bar, that is completely different than having just a bar. It’s the same reason I didn’t open a brew pub, two great businesses that go great together, but neither of which I knew anything about.Along the Prost! model we always hoped to start with a minimum amount of food and then increase that in our next space. In fact, in my opinion, the three best beer bars in
While beer drinkers seem content to drink and eat independently, it goes against the grain, against my grain anyway, to drink wine without food. I have always imagined the perfect bar, the bar we set out to build, as having a tapas style menu. Unfortunately, in the time crunch of opening it was very hard to find a vendor who could make food for us offsite that was delicious, that we could store without degrading the quality, that was wine friendly, that we could plate and serve in kitchen, and that was affordable. Basically, we had to take what we could get. And although we have never stopped tinkering with the menu, it never was what I envisioned, we couldn’t engender a passion among the staff to sell it, and eventually our sales dwindled off to the point where it really didn’t make sense to carry on with our menu.
In a way food has always been our bane. I keep emphasizing that we are a bar with food and not a restaurant, but the fact that we serve it on fine china, with linen napkins and gorgeous flatware does seem to confuse people. It certainly confused the only food critic who has reviewed us who wrote us up like a restaurant and apparently didn’t even notice the cruvinet. Of course, we also had to explain to her that the silver was inside the napkin…
As Daron and I debated food/no food I was arguing against all logic that we really needed to not only do food, but more and better food. This is because as we looked at our business model it just seemed to me that while the beer drinkers seem to get us the wine drinkers do not, and this is the biggest possible area of immediate growth for us. If you work at Microsoft, you might call that “low-hanging fruit.” So we are essentially relaunching the bar. The whole concept of Balefire has always been that if people will pay too much for mediocre wine treated badly, then they should happily pay great prices for good wine treated perfectly. If we haven’t succeeded in getting that word out, then we really haven’t succeeded in our business plan. And to do that, we needed a fresher, more wine-centric menu.
Enter Chef Clara from Kafe Neo and our first wine dinner. As any of you know who came to it, our first wine dinner was a runaway success, and that was entirely due to the genius of Clara. When we really started confronting the failure of our existing menu, I turned to her for some help. The short story is that in a very short time she proposed several dozen items that we could afford, that kept well, that plated beautifully, and that go well with wine. I mean she came in and hit every criteria we need to have a successful menu. We worked with her last night to learn how to prepare the food, and not only am I excited, but the staff is also really happy. Finally, we have food that fits our model and is exciting to serve. And we have enough of these items to rotate them out and keep the menu fresh for a long time. In the future, I hope to raise many glasses of wine to this woman who really helped us implement this crucial part of our dream.
After preparing the food, we put the plates on the bar and proceeded to sample the various creations with the different wines in the cruvinet. Now, while I honestly believe wine needs food to make that synergistic leap to the sublime, I’m not one of those people who believes in “the perfect match.” For me, it’s more about the acids in the wine combining with the fats and flavors in the food, the volatiles exploding the flavors over the entire palate, than it is in wondering if I’ve chosen just the right vintage of Chablis to go with Quilcene oysters. Perhaps it is because I lack subtlety, but I do find that I appreciate a wide variety of food and wine matches.
Well, with Clara’s menu, food and wine matching became impossible.
Not because the food was too spicy, or fought with the wine, or the wine wasn’t good enough, but because each small plate carried such a riot of flavors that in some places I couldn’t even pick red or white. My whole food-wine paradigm was just wrong.
Maybe as time goes on and I get more experience with the food, this will become clearer to me. While the previous menu was specifically designed to have a pairing for each category, I’ve never felt Balefire was about dictating experience, but rather about enabling it. So for now, pairings on the menu are dead. Instead, I’m going to run specials for a menu item and a flight. Today, it’s gazpacho and rose. Come in, try the new menu, tell me if I’m wrong.